Understanding tides, beaches and why waves break the way they do.

Wind and storms at sea form pressure differences on the ocean surface. As these thousands of miles they gather together to form swells. As the swell approaches the land and the sea bottom gets shallower, the waves become higher and narrower and the distance between each wave becomes shorter. The wave becomes higher until it collapses and topples over. This is called surf.

Different waves

Hollow waves

Hollow waves break suddenly with a lot of power. Hollow, dumping waves that break on the shore are called a shore break. Tubes and barrels can be found in hollow waves.

Spilling waves

This type of wave occurs when the crest (or top) of the wave tumbles down onto its own face as it breaks. In surfers terms, these can sometimes be referred to as fat waves. These are good introductory waves when you are learning to take off on and ride unbroken waves.

Surging waves

A surging wave may never break as it approaches the beach. This is because it is very deep beneath the wave. Surging waves often occur around rocks. You can’t and wouldn’t surf a surging wave.

Beaches and waves

This beach has an even sand bottom that is not very steep. Generally the waves will spill as they get closer to the beach. Conditions at low tide might be quite different than high tide.

At this beach there will be more spilling waves at high tide. When the tide goes out there is less water covering the sand bar, the waves will start dumping on the sand bar due to the steepness of the sand bottom.

At this beach the waves will be spilling at low tide. When the tide comes in and the waves hit the steep rise they will start dumping. This is commonly called a shore break.

It’s not until you have mastered surfing along a wave face that you are even going to notice changes to a fin set up. So until then just make sure your board has fins,  any old fins, and you’ll be fine! If you have an old board it might only have one big fin…perfect!

Fins stabilise your board and stop it from slipping all over the wave face. They also create forward movement to allow you to turn. Most surf boards now come with removable fins. This gives you the option to change the size and shape of your fin to suit the types of waves you ride.  It also makes travel a lot easier.

There are a couple of fin systems that dominate the surfboard market. FCS and FUTURE fins are the most common. These fin companies have slightly different screw in systems and a surfboard’s fin box (where the fins slot into) is set up for one type of fin systems.

There are literally thousands of options when it comes to what fins to choose and it can be as simple or technical as you like. The larger the fin, the more stability your board will have, but it will take a lot more effort to turn it. Finding a good fit can begin (and end) with establishing the appropriate fin size for your body weight.

Here is a very basic run down of some of the variances that can be found in fins

Depth:  the longer the fin, the more it will hold in the water = more stability.

Flexibility: The more side to side movement = slower response, a stiff fin has immediate responsiveness

Curve: A sharper curve = better drive.  A longer curve = more manoeuvrability.

Foil: or (bulge)

Materials:Keep things simple and stick to a general all round fin, or get as technical as you like!

Legrope is basically your lifeline that keeps you within arms reach of your surfboard at all times. There are heaps of different models and fun colours available. Selecting the correct size and model and attaching a leash correctly require a little bit of guidance.

Video here!

READ MORE> Parts of a leash

The Cord The two main aspects of the cord to consider are: length and thickness. Length As a general rule your leash should be about 6’ longer than your board. So naturally, the longer the surfboard is, the longer the leash required. If your board is 7’0 then a 7’6 leash is good.

Thickness varies from 5mm to 7.5mm. The thickness of a legrope is dependent on the size of your surfboard and the size of the waves you like to surf. Basically long boards and heavier boards require the added strength of a thicker legrope and if you surf big waves a thicker leash is also required. Advanced surfers prefer thinner legropes to reduce the resistance of drag in the water so they can retain speed.

Rail Saver The railsaver is the velcro section that links the small rope cord to the leash. It’s thickness protects the edges (rails) of your surfboard from being damaged if stress or pressure is applied. The rail saver is in its correct position if it makes contact with the rails when your leash is stretched out fully. If the string is touching the rails when it is stretched out then you need to shorten the string.

Swivels Swivels allow any tangles to automatically untangle themselves and prevent your leash from getting tangled up and wrapped around your feet. Choosing a leash with a double swivel system is the best. One swivel is attached to the ankle strap and the other at the rail saver. Which leash to choose? If you are a beginner you are not going to notice the subtle differences between different leashes. So long as your leash is around 7mm thick and about 6’ longer than your board it will do the job just fine.

An overview

The best wetsuit in the world is the one that is light, stretchy, comfy and it fits your well.

Identify

• your wetsuit needs the most common is warmth, but you could be after sun/reef protection
• your budget there are benefits in being a little flexi here
• the coverage you want such long legs/long arms
• your preferred features like zip location (more below)
• your size standard clothing size

By doing this you have narrowed down your options significantly.

Skim your way through the sub-headings to what you need to know if you must…But don’t miss the points at the bottom about shopping, finding the correct fit and wetsuit care.

Your new second skin is called neoprene

It’s the material that wetsuits are made out. The thickness of the neoprene is measured in millimetres. Generally speaking the thicker the wetsuit, the warmer it is. Usually the added thickness means flexibility is compromised. Although it may not seem like much, a 1mm difference in thickness can keep you feeling warm for an additional hour each every surf.

Thickness lingo

A “4/3” wetsuit mean that it is 4mm thick on the body and 3mm thick on the limbs.

A “3/2” is 3mm on the body, 2mm on the limbs.

The thickest panels provide added warmth to your core, the thinner panels more flexibility.

General temperature guide…

5/3 – under 11 degrees celcius

4/3 10 – 15 degrees celcius

3/2 16 – 22 degrees celcius

However, thickness is not the only determining warmth factor. A slighlty thinner wetsuit with quality neoprene and durable, water-tight stitching/seals can mean just as much warmth (sometimes even more) with the added bonus of better flexibility.

Wetsuit Styles

The 2 classic types of wetsuit cuts are:

Steamer: Full length arms with full length legs

Spring Suit: Short legs with either short length or full length arms

Women’s wetsuits now have a range of diverse cuts and styles. There are options of sleeveless, front zippers, bikin cut spring suits, low necks, vests. Most of these variations are designed for warmer water.

Entry systems 

Try out different entry systems. The main two are either a back zip or a chest zip.

Chest zips (sometimes called zipper-less) are a little trickier to get into, but no water comes in through the zip which is a huge bonus. A common problem area for fit is around the neck. If it’s too tight it can rub. If it’s too loose water will gush through. Different entry systems may have a better fit on your neck and some have an adjustable option. Chest zip suits do keep water out, but if you can’t get a good fit or you prefer an easy entry, back zip up suits are a good option.

a note on the shopping experience

Getting in and out of wetsuits is a much lengthier process than shoe shopping so allow plenty of time. Wear your bikini (or underwear that has the equivalent properties as a bikini… i.e no push up bras) so that you get an accurate fit.

It can be sweaty after your 3rd suit but it is important and well worth the time you put into it. Be sure to try a range of brands and styles. Shop assistants from reputable surf stores are very knowledgeable so make the most of their expertise.

Finding the right fit

The key areas where you don’t want any bagginess or slack material are: under your arms, on your back, around your breasts, around your neck behind your knees. Also, the wrist, ankle and neck should all seal. If you’re not used to wearing a wetsuit, It’s common to feel like a good fit is actually tight. A good fit will sit on your body like second skin.

Move around, do squats, star jumps, paddle motions and streeeetch to test the range of movements the suit allows you to do freely. Neck height can vary a lot between different wetsuits. Try on a range to see what feels better for you.

The technicalities

This section is where we delve into the technical. If you are going to be purchasing a winter wetsuit this info can be really useful. To combat the stiffness that comes with added thickness, top end suits are continuously pushing boundaries with fewer panels, ultra flexible neoprene and more durable, water tight seams. This technology is beginning to filter down into cheaper options too.

Stitching and seamsThe method of stitching and the type of seam in a wetsuit make a big difference to flexibility, durability, warmth and price. As you now know, a well fitting wetsuit is essential for warmth and comfort. Separate, tailored panels of neoprene joined together create an optimum fit. However, the seams of these separate panels have pros and cons: More Seams a better fitting wetsuit can be glued to prevent water coming in reduces flexibility Increases the likelihood of chafing caused by a seam Less Seams Less chance of water entering the suit Poorer fit, although this is becoming less and less a problem with new hyper-flexible neoprene technology

There are three types of stitching

Overlock Stitching: The two edges of the panels are rolled together and then stitched. This method is commonly used on summer suits and cheaper suits. It is the least effective at keeping water out and it reduces comfort (the seam can be felt on your skin) and flexibility. Flat-lock stitching: two overlapping edges of material are stitched together and the seam lies flat on the inside and outside.The resulting seam is flexible and strong. The drawback is that the many tiny holes make it prone to high water penetration making it more suited to warmer water surfing.

Glued and Blind-stitched: Edges are glued together and then stitched. The stitching pierces only the inside layer of the neoprene so the join is nearly watertight. Result: watertight, flexible seams. This is the ideal seam for cold water temperatures, and is found on higher quality, more expensive wetsuits. If you are a cold water surfer, do yourself a favour and pay extra for blindstitching. Sealing the seams Seals counter water seepage issues that occurs with stitching. They also add strength and durability to seams.

Spot Taped Seams: Tape is glued to the inside of the seam in critical areas to add additional strength where needed Fully Taped Seams: Tape is glued to the inside of every seam. Neoprene tape can be used to ensure there is no loss in flexibility Liquid Seal Seams Latex based glue is applied to the inside seam, making it waterproof and more flexible.

Further helpful terms

Thermospan/ Firewall/ Poly pro panels are all fancy names for a lovely layer of insulating material that draws water away from your body.

Fast drying linings are a furry lining that genuinely do dry quickly and they keep you warmer. Not to mention that their quick drying makes your second surf in the chilly months much more appealing.

Batwing A flap of neoprene sitting flush inside the upper back of your suit which collects any water drips (rather than have them dribble down your back).

Wetsuit Care

A salt encrusted wetsuit will perish very quickly. And a salt encrusted wetsuit left out in direct sunlight will perish even quicker. Wash your wetsuit well after every surf in cold, fresh water, leave it to drip dry in the shade and will add years onto it’s life.

It’s not until you have mastered surfing along a wave face that you are even going to notice changes to a fin set up. So until then just make sure your board has fins,  any old fins, and you’ll be fine! If you have an old board it might only have one big fin…perfect!

The original role of a fin was to stabilise your board and stop it from slipping all over the wave face. They have since evolved into a high tech piece of equipment designed to not only provide stability, but to totally enhance your surfing experience.

From fixed rubber fins on foam boards (designed to handle being ridden into the shallows) to removable, interchangeable fin systems on high performing thrusters, there is a range of shapes, sizes and materials to suite different purposes.

The following gives you a little heads up on the basic considerations with removable fins.

“have you tried different fins?”

FCS and FUTURE fins are the main players in removable fin systems. They have slight variances in their screw/click in systems, therefore your surfboard’s fin box (where the fins slot into) is only set up for either one or the other and not both brands.

Whichever system your surfboard has, the beauty is you have the option to play around with size, set up and shape as much or as little as you like.

It’s worth noting that a simple change in the size of your fins can potentially make a big difference to your surfing experience. A common question asked amongst surfers (who can ride the face of a wave and do turns) experiencing difficulties is  “have you tried different fins?” 

There are thousands of options when it comes to what fins to try and you can make it as simple or technical as you like. The main 3 factors are size, set up and material.

size

The larger the fin, the less responsive it is, but the more stability your board will have. Watch any surfer who has mastered the art of riding a single fin. Their turns are slower, longer and drawn out. That one large fin of theirs is a perfect match for their style of surfing.

Finding a good fit can begin (and end) with establishing the appropriate fin size for your body weight.

If you are in between sizes, consider your ability. For example, if you are a beginner and are in between size M and L, it could be a good idea to pick L for the added stability.

quad, Twin, Tri…which set up? 

Once you have decided on a size, examine your board’s fin configuration. Your board will be outfitted with 1 to 5 fin boxes.

From here you have options to experiment with different set ups (such as a quad or twin fin set up). Within this you can play around with size combinations, such as 2 bigger fins on the outside and a regular size fin in the middle.

Or you keep it simple and have all matching fin sizes.

and then there are different materials…

Keep things simple and go for the cheapest and most basic materials (such as plastic) to start. If you are riding wave faces and doing turns, then it could be worth investigating some of the different elements of a fin, such as it’s material, weight, stiffness, flex, thickness and shape. Keeping in mind your ability, surfing style and the size waves that you ride.

so how do I combine all these factors into a good fit for me?

The evolving nature of surfing and surf craft is rapid. Within it all there is quick and easy direction  from the experts who know it best.

In order to make life simple, I am going to lead you directly to the experts in order to find simple, quick answers and good direction. FCS has an online tool to help you decipher a good fit fin. FUTURE and FCS both have to-the-point video clips outlining their product features.  Easy.

Alternatively, fin packs in surf shops and online state their weight match and exactly what they are designed to do for a board. Some surf shops may even lend out ‘demo’ fins for you to try before committing.

So there it is. There door to fins is now wide open and ready for you to head into, now, or whenever your surfing is ready.

your life line

…that vital, genius piece of equipment that always keeps you connected to your board.

length and and thickness are the main factors to consider.

As a general rule your leash should be about 6″ longer than your board. So naturally, the longer the surfboard is, the longer the leash required. If your board is 7’0 then a 7’6 leash is good.

Thickness varies from 5mm to 7.5mm. The thickness of a legrope is dependent on the size of your surfboard and the size of the waves you like to surf. Basically long boards and heavier boards require the added strength of a thicker legrope and if you surf big waves a thicker leash is also required. Advanced surfers prefer thinner legropes to reduce the resistance of drag in the water so they can retain speed.

Rail saver

The railsaver is the velcro section that links the small rope cord to the leash. It’s thickness protects the edges (rails) of your surfboard from being damaged if stress or pressure is applied. The rail saver is in its correct position if it makes contact with the rails when your leash is stretched out fully. If the string is touching the rails when it is stretched out then you need to shorten the string. See the video below.

Video to add here

Swivels

swivels allow any tangles to automatically untangle themselves and prevent your leash from getting tangled up and wrapped around your feet. Choosing a leash with a double swivel system is the best. One swivel is attached to the ankle strap and the other at the rail saver.