“Confidence comes through continuously challenging yourself and pushing your limits.”
When you have mastered catching green waves you naturally develop your confidence and begin to seek slightly bigger waves that you can ride all the way to the beach. The thrill factor is so intoxicating! You learn how to gain speed and do carves along the face of the wave.
Slowly but surely the progression continues and you find yourself ready for the challenge of bigger manoeuvres and bigger waves. Waves over head high and then beyond…
CATCHING BIGGER WAVES
Feel that little niggle of fear…and go anyway!
And the secret is to commit. 100%. Trust, and have confidence in your ability. Your body’s muscle memory has locked in the reflex of taking off by now, it knows what to do. Overcome your fear with your positive mindset and strong self-belief. Paddle in fast and powerfully and don’t hesitate for a second. Repeat a positive affirmation in your head as you’re paddling in. You will be well rewarded and your confidence will sky-rocket. It only takes one good one and I guarantee you will be paddling back out for more.
If you wipe out, shake it off and make sure you head out and catch a good one before going in. This can be a lot easier said then done but it is important. Aim to leave the water with a smile and your confidence soaring.
MANOEUVRES
Maintaining the right amount of speed to surf along a peeling wave is done by keep your board close to the breaking part of the wave. You see this in action all the time when you watch experienced long boarders and short boarders adjust their speed or link turns.
Remember that a longboard is nowhere near as responsive as a shortboard. If you transition to a shortboard, doing tight, fast turns will come naturally. If you stay on your longboard your manoeuvres will be more drawn out.
In either case, practise turns in surf you feel really comfortable in. Don’t attempt new big moves when you’re out of your comfort zone, like a busy line up (where you could run somebody over!) or when you’re in bigger surf. Finding a quieter spot in the line up is a good idea. And always watch, watch, watch experienced surfers.
The biggest factors that will improve your rate of improvement are
- time spent in the water
- a positive mindset
- a willingness to push your limits
- watching experienced surfers and doing what they do
Positioning yourself to be in contention in a busy lineup, committing and paddling into challenging, bigger waves, attempting manoeuvres, all the while following etiquette requires confidence.